You’ve made an order and the dealer has sent you an album of your watch and asked if you accept.

This guide covers what you should pay attention to when RL (Red Lighting/Rejection) or GL (Green Light/Approving) a watch.

Index alignment

Refers to the alignment of the hour markers or numerals on the watch dial. The index alignment is essential for the overall aesthetics and functionality of the watch.

You can check the index alignment of your watch during the PSP by having your seller send you a clear, straight on shot of the face of the watch.

Now, don’t get your fing panties in a bunch if you find shit is misaligned. First make sure you’re using the tool correctly. You also want to ensure that your PSP isn’t taken at any kind of weird angle. This is one of the many reasons why the TD list is so crucial, they are accustomed to providing the right photos, and so all you have to do is stick it in that link.

Note that there is a difference between consistency and accuracy:

• Accuracy: Accuracy refers to how close a measured value or information is to the true or correct value. Accuracy would be each spoke on the assessment tool hitting the middle of the diamond.
• Consistency: Consistency refers to the degree of uniformity, stability, or repeatability of results or measurements when performed under the same conditions. In this case, each spoke of the assessment tool touching the same points on the watch.

You’ll see in the photos of my rep, that it is consistent, but not accurate. That’s cus im fucking lazy and can’t hold the watch straight. You want to make note of the CONSISTENCY when using the tool if you have a photo like mine, not the accuracy. Ideally both however.

Dial Printing

Refers to the various markings, text, numerals, and decorative elements to the watch dial. The dial is the flat or slightly curved surface of the watch face where the time is displayed. Common elements you may find on a watch dial:

• Hour Markers/Minute Markers/Brand Name/Logo
• Luminous Material: make the watch readable in low-light conditions. (something that shit watches can fuck up if the chemical isn’t applied properly, so your watch might look like shit even in the dark)
• Subdials: In watches with additional complications like chronographs (stopwatch function) or other features, small subdials may be included on the main dial.
• Tachymeter/Telemeter/Other Scales: Some watches have specialized scales printed on the outer edge or inner bezel of the dial for specific purposes, such as measuring speed (tachymeter) or distance (telemeter).

Dial Printing for a Rolex Lady’s Datejust 31 with diamond markers. This is somewhat straight forward and also really annoying and complex. Simply put just compare a close up of your Rep with the Authentic online, ideally a photo of the authentic from a watch forum. You’ll want to look at the following:

• Diamond Hour Markers: The dial will feature diamond hour markers at each hour position
• Date Window: Datejust models include a date window at the 3 o’clock position, allowing you to see the current date. More on this in the Date Wheel alignment section.
• Rolex Crown Logo: The Rolex crown logo is present in place of the 12 o’clock position.
• “ROLEX” Brand Name: The brand name “ROLEX” is printed below the 12 o’clock position, and below that “oyster perpetual datejust”
• Above the 6 o’clock position will be “superlative chronometer officially certified”
• Below the 6 o’clock position will be “Swiss made” with a Rolex image between the words
• Model/Collection Name: Most Rollies will have an engraving that is seen on the rim underneath the crystal face. It will say ROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEX until the 6 o’clock position and then it will be the serial number. you can see what I’m talking about HERE
• Finally any Rolex made after 2002 will have a very very faint etching on the crystal. It is a small crown emblem etched at the 6 o’clock position on the inside surface of the crystal. It’s really hard to see and I saw it first on my rep before I could find it on my auth. Note that an auth isn’t going to be all flashy about it, its def super hard to find, the rep on the other hand, may or may not have it but if it does the fainter, more difficult to spot the better. read more about it HERE

This gets complicated because I cannot find the EXACT measurements of the above anywhere, so if you want to get freakishly technical about it- call your psychiatrist. Other than that just compare the two faces of the watch side by side as images. Try and look for the size and spacing of the letters, if it’s printed cleanly, if it’s spelled “Bolex”.

Fun fact, “kerning” is a typographic term used in graphic design and typesetting to refer to the adjustment of the space between individual characters or letters in a piece of text. It is specifically focused on adjusting the space between two adjacent characters to achieve better visual harmony and improve the overall appearance of the text.

~cHeCk YoR kErrnnINGg~

Date Wheel alignment/printing

Also known as Date Disc alignment or Date Printing, this is a rotating disc inside the watch movement that displays the current date through a small window (date window) on the watch dial. Date Wheel alignment or printing refers to the proper positioning and centering of the numerical or numeral indicators on the Date Wheel to ensure that the date is correctly displayed in the date window. Watch manufacturers use different techniques and technologies to achieve accurate Date Wheel alignment during the manufacturing process.

Misaligned Date Wheels can lead to various issues, such as:

• Partially hidden date: If the Date Wheel is misaligned, the date numerals may not fully appear through the date window, making it difficult to read the complete date.
• Overlapping or misshapen numerals: Improper alignment can cause date numerals to overlap or appear distorted, affecting readability.
• Incorrect date display: In some cases, a misaligned Date Wheel may cause the date to jump or change slightly before or after midnight, leading to an inaccurate display.

Date Wheel alignment/printing for a Rolex Lady’s Datejust 31: In the case of Rolex’s the cyclops lens is the specific name for it’s date window (small, circular piece of magnifying material, typically made of sapphire crystal, which is placed directly above the date aperture at the 3 o’clock position on the watch dial.) The primary function of the cyclops is to enhance date legibility, so you know if you’re late and carrying your idiot boyfriends child. It enlarges the date numeral by around 2.5 times, making it more prominent and clearer for the wearer. This is usually what is a dead give away, as it’s hard to reproduce. Further information HERE

Also pretty straight forward and annoyingly technical. Off the bat I can tell that the number within the date wheel sits a little too low, it’s also slightly less visible and thus smaller than my Auth. This is due to the typeface being slightly smaller and something is a little off with the cyclops lens. To assess this detail on your watch, you’re going to need someone who is trained to QC the watch to look at it or look at examples.

It is difficult because in photographs it’s hard to determine if it’s the right size. There are things that someone can tell you to look for, but fuck if I know the lettering has been 2.5X.

However in person and especially next to an authentic- mine is obviously more difficult to read.

Hand Alignment

Refers to the correct positioning and alignment of the watch hands (hour, minute, and second hands) on the watch dial.

1. Hour Hand Alignment: The hour hand should be precisely aligned with the hour markers on the dial. It should point directly at the respective hour markers without any misalignment or deviation. If the hour hand is misaligned, it can lead to difficulties in reading the time accurately.
2. Minute Hand Alignment: The minute hand should be aligned with the minute markers on the dial. It should point directly at the minute markers and move smoothly without any catching or rubbing against other elements on the watch dial.
3. Second Hand Alignment: The second hand, if present in the watch, should move smoothly and align accurately with the second markers or indices on the dial. It should sweep around the dial in a manner that resembles the “movement” of your watch.
4. Centering: Hand alignment also involves ensuring that all three hands are properly centered on their respective axes or pivots. They should be balanced and evenly spaced around the central axis of the watch.

Hand Alignment for a Rolex Lady’s Datejust 31: Basically the same as any watch and whats written above. You are looking to see if your shit ticks right. With the diamond index’s this becomes a little irrelevant since there aren’t any markers to check the alignment, but you can still assess the hands to make sure nothing is wonky.

Bezel

A bezel is a functional and decorative component that surrounds the watch crystal (glass face) and holds it securely in place. The bezel is typically located on the top of the watch case, surrounding the face. Bezels can be made from various materials, such as stainless steel, gold, ceramic, precious stones. Depending on the watch type, there are different types of bezels, each serving unique purposes:

• Protective Bezel: Many watches have a protective bezel that covers and secures the watch crystal. This bezel prevents the crystal from being scratched or damaged due to everyday wear and tear.
• Rotating Bezel: Some sports and diving watches feature a rotating bezel, usually with minute markings or a dive scale. This bezel can be rotated unidirectionally to measure elapsed time or to keep track of remaining time during an activity.
• Tachymeter Bezel: Certain chronograph watches have a tachymeter bezel. This bezel is marked with a scale that allows the wearer to measure speed based on the time it takes to travel a known distance.
• Countdown Bezel: Some watches designed for specific sports or activities have a countdown bezel. It allows the wearer to set a specific time duration and count down to zero.
• GMT Bezel: Watches with GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) or multiple time zone functions might have a bezel with 24-hour markings. This bezel assists in tracking the time in different time zones.
• ✨Decorative Bezel✨: In luxury and fashion watches, the bezel may serve a purely decorative purpose. It can be adorned with precious stones, diamonds, or intricate designs to enhance the watch’s aesthetics.

Bezel for a Rolex Lady’s Datejust 31: A bezel for the Datejust can be either fluted or smooth. I personally think the smooth bezel is the ugliest thing I’ve ever seen, but who I am to inform you that you’re making a terrible choice. There’s also the iced out bezel- I’m indifferent.

However, worth noting- the fluted bezel only comes in solid gold. The smooth bezel has various options for the metal type. Even if you get an authentic steel Datejust 31 the fluted bezel will be in white gold.

I haven’t been able to find much information on determining the quality of your bezel. you might have a bad bezel. I asked r/RepTime about bad bezels, no one has responded… Let me know if y’all have any more information on assessing bezels in general.

Solid End Links (SELs)

Refer to the solid metal links that connect the watch case to the watch bracelet or strap. They are a feature commonly found in high-quality and luxury watches. The end links are located at the lugs of the watch case, which are the protruding extensions on both sides of the case where the bracelet or strap attaches.

In watches with solid end links, the metal links are precisely fitted to the specific shape and curvature of the watch case lugs. This results in a seamless and precise connection between the case and the bracelet, providing a comfortable and secure fit on the wrist. Solid is referring to the fit of the first link being tightly secured without gaps or movement- not *solid*- like good- the way I initially interpreted it…

Solid End Links (SELs) for a Rolex Lady’s Datejust 31: Honestly go to the accuracy assessment portion down below it will be a lot easier to see what I’m trying to explain than writing it out.

Timegrapher numbers

Also known as Timegrapher readings or measurements, are specific values obtained from a timegrapher, which is a specialized watch testing instrument used by watchmakers and technicians to assess the accuracy and performance of the time on the watch.

The timegrapher measures various aspects of a watch’s movement and provides valuable information about its health and timekeeping capabilities. Some of the common timegrapher numbers include:

• Rate (in seconds per day): The rate is the most crucial measurement and represents the watch’s accuracy. It indicates how many seconds the watch gains or loses over a 24-hour period. A rate of 0 seconds per day means the watch is keeping perfect time, while positive values indicate it is running fast, and negative values mean it is running slow.
• Amplitude (in degrees): Amplitude measures the arc through which the balance wheel swings. It reflects the health of the watch’s movement and its ability to maintain accurate timekeeping. Proper amplitude ensures that the balance wheel has enough energy to perform its oscillations effectively.
• Beat Error (in milliseconds): Beat error measures the consistency of the balance wheel’s back-and-forth motion. A low beat error value indicates good stability, while higher values might suggest issues with the escapement.
• Beat Rate (in beats per hour): Beat rate represents the frequency at which the balance wheel oscillates. For most mechanical watches, the standard beat rate is 28,800 or 21,600 beats per hour.
• Lift Angle (in degrees): Lift angle is specific to watches with certain escapements (e.g., lever escapement). It measures the angle through which the escape wheel moves when releasing energy to the balance wheel.
• Beat Number (in beats per hour): Beat number indicates the number of vibrations (beats) the watch’s balance wheel makes in one hour.
• Power Reserve (in hours): In some advanced timegraphers, the power reserve can be measured to determine how long the watch movement will run before needing to be wound again.

Timegrapher readings provide insights into the condition of a watch movement, helping watchmakers diagnose issues and regulate the watch for optimal accuracy. If you go to a legit TD they will take a picture of the timegrapher data so you know its gucci. Usually a rep can run -/+10 seconds off. Don’t sweat it, even auths need to be serviced to be maintained, a Rolex typically has a precision about -/+ 2 seconds.

Values for the AUTHENTIC Rolex Datejust 31 are below. Some of the values listed above will be relative to the watch’s health.

Timegrapher numbers for a Rolex Lady’s Datejust 31: In addition to the above, the movement of the watch is 3135. This is the most common Rolex movement fitted into multiple sports watches. It is a three hand with date function displaying hours, minutes, seconds and the date. It is widely regarded as one of the wonders of horology boosting 31 jewels, and a 50 hour power reserve. The 3135 movement began in 1988 and has been fitted into the following watches: Oyster Perpetual Date, Datejust, Submariner, Sea-Dweller, Yacht-Master and the Deep Sea Sea Dweller.

You’re not going to get that. You can find something really close to that, but it’s literally like wanting your flap to be identical to auth. go buy the real thing if you want the thing that makes the company renown.

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